JANUARY 2010
SOUTH ARGENTINA- Tierra Del Fuego
Friday 1st we left the camp at 0800
and drove into Ushuaia. We arrived, found the camp quite easily
and were installed before tea break. We then relaxed. After
dinner we were visited by Rudi and Berlinda, they were off into town
for their dinner and asked us if we would like to go with them.
We declined and they went off.
Saturday 2nd Rudi and Berlinda called in to say “goodbye”, they were meeting friends in the town. The rest of the morning passed and after lunch Kev and Lorraine called in for a chat. They left just before dinner. Sunday was a fine sunny day. We drove into town to shop, in Carrefour, to use an ATM and then we visited the other camp to see if any one we knew was there, there wasn’t. Henk and Marianne called in at 2130, Howard went to their van for a chat. Monday a rest day. Mervyn went for a walk. Henk and Marianne visited us after dinner for a chat. Tuesday we started north for a change, on a fine sunny day with very brief rain showers. We saw a Grey Fox running up a cliff in the morning. We arrived in Rio Grande by 1215, but spent an hour looking for the camp. Howard eventually asked in a Ford dealers and we were guided to the camp by one of the staff, in his car. Wednesday on another sunny but very windy day, we drove from Rio Grande to San Sebastian to cross into Chile. We arrived at the Argentinean Border Post at 1145 and left the Chilean Border Post at 1300, it seemed a bit chaotic. We drove five hundred metres to the Frontera Inn, where we had stopped on the way south. We ate dinner in the restaurant, It was excellent. Thursday we made an early start, we were on the road by 0730. The journey began with one hundred and five km of ripio (corrugated gravel road). This took one hundred and seven minutes at sixty kph. The quiet when
we reached the made up
road was wonderful. The next obstacle was the ferry, we loaded
within half an hour of our arrival. We drove to the
Chile/Argentine Border and arrived at 1130. We left the control
at 1330 for a late lunch and then drove to Rio Gallegos, to shop at
Carrefour and camp twenty five km further on at Güer Aike at
1645. Friday In
the morning we replaced the Charcoal Filter in our Water
Purifier. Then we relaxed for a rest day.
Saturday 9th we drove to the airport to meet our friends Kim and Mark Viner, they were in Argentina for a holiday and were flying out to the offshore islands. We arrived there two minutes before them and they came into the van for tea and a chat. The time soon passed and they had to book in for their flight, we then had coffee and chocolate in the café before they boarded their plane. We lunched and left to drive north to Comandante Luis Piedrabuena, where we camped. Sunday we continued our journey north on R3 to Fitz Roy where the camp was very neglected. We left and returned sixteen km south to Jaramillo where the camp was well cared for. An armadillo darted out from the side of the road, we swerved and missed it. It returned to the verge, we also saw during the day many small groups of Llamas and two Rheas, one with chicks. Monday on a sunny and very windy day we continued our route north to Comodoro Rivadavia to shop and then we returned ten km to the excellent camp at Rada Tilly where we were warmly welcomed back. Tuesday was a rest day, Howard broke the plastic connection to the toilet, we now have to flush the toilet with a bottle of water. Wednesday at 0900 we left the camp to journey west to Sarmiento in a very strong westerly wind which made the van swerve. We arrived at 1200 and found the camp easily. It looked flooded. The other camp was closed and we returned to enter the first camp where we were shown to a dry site. The site was also well sheltered from the wind. Thursday we left by 0800 bound for Gobernador Costa. The wind although strong was gusty and we arrived at 1200 firstly to fill up with diesel and then to find the camp. As the town was not very big, even following the directions wrongly we still found the camp. We settled in and then had lunch. A short walk followed to try to find an internet café, we were unsuccessful. Friday we left by 0800 and drove north with a little west in the direction to Esquel. When we arrived we drove through the town seeking the Tourist Information. We did not find it so we stopped on the road side for tea break. As we had seen a camp on our drive through we returned to it to find that it had space, for our large caravan, not on the usual camp site. After lunch we walked into town to book a cruise on the two lakes, Lago Menendez and Lago Futalaufquen. Our walk back to the camp was delayed by a visit to an Ice Cream Parlour. The day has been hot and sunny but not windy.
Saturday 16th we made a leisurely start for the camp in the National Park and arrived in time for elevenses. The route was not very simple, the tarmac road was unfinished which meant a detour of twenty km, eleven of them being on ripio. We had tea break on arrival, and relaxed for the rest of the day. Sunday we started on five km of ripio to get to the departure point of the first boat. We arrived in plenty of time and boarded the boat just before 0900. The boat sailed at 0920 to take us up Lago Futalaufquen, it took an hour and a half to the north end of the Lago. A walk of half an hour took us to Lago Menendez where we boarded the second boat for an hour’s trip northwards. From the landing at Brazo Norte, Mervyn went on the two hour guided tour while Howard went on the one hour self guided tour, along with several other persons. We both saw the 2600 year old Alerce Tree. After an hours wait for Mervyn we boarded the boat at the jetty, only to be told, an hour later, that it was the wrong boat. The right boat soon arrived and the outward trip was reversed to bring us back to the start by 1830. A short drive back to the camp was followed by a fine evening meal in the restaurant. Monday we made a leisurely start for the journey to El Bolson. The day was fine with clouds and some sun. The ripio made the short trip back to Esquel longer than we had hoped, but after that it all went smoothly and we arrived at 1530. We found a nice camp at the third attempt. Tuesday as we had the internet we took along time Before starting and then decided it was too late to start. A rest day. Wednesday our start was not very early, we tried the net but could not connect with it, we did not get away until 0915. The journey was up and down steep mountain roads and therefore slow. We still arrived at the camp in Bariloche in time for lunch, and again there was internet. Thursday a short journey was planned, we shopped for two days. We drove west to circumnavigate the Llao Llao peninsular and then back through Bariloche and on to Villa La Angostura. The town was as touristy and busy as Bariloche. We continued on towards the Chilean border looking for a camp, we did not find one and crossed into Chile, loosing the morning‘s shopping of bananas and meat. The crossing itself was not too difficult and we travelled on for ten km to camp. Friday we continued w
estwards to Entrelagos where we tried to
obtain Chilean cash and shop. As this was unsuccessful we drove
to Osorno where we found an ATM and Tourist Information, while Mervyn
drove round and round the town square Howard obtained some cash and
directions to a camp. On our way to the recommended camp we
shopped in a supermarket and then continued on to the camp.
Saturday 23rd we drove south on the motorway to Frutillar, found the Tourist Information and then the camp up a dirt road. We settled in and then had tea break. There are three volcanoes across the lake, the snow on their tops glistening in the sun. Sunday we returned north through Osorno and then turned west to Valdivia, to camp on a beautiful lakeside site. The weather seems to have settled, sunny and warm. We took our washing to the camp office to be collected and washed. It was returned at 2250 when we were both in bed. Monday was a rest day. Mervyn bussed into the town and bought some maps. Tuesday we started off at 0815 to drive to Pucón where we arrived just after elevenses. We had superb views of the Volcano Villarrica. Wednesday we started off north-westwards to reach the motorway where we turned north as far as Lautaro. We then turned east into the mountains to Malalcahuello where we camped in the grounds of The Ho
tel Suizandina. In The Hotel grounds
were some different coloured Llamas. We had an excellent meal in
the hotel where we chatted to two English teachers who were working in
Santiago. Thursday
the day started with hot showers. We then started out west back
to Curacautín and then headed north of east to Victoria where we
tried to get the tracking
checked. A young Señor, Danilo, was very helpful and gave
us his phone number in case we were in difficulties speaking
Spanish. We had to go to Los Angeles to get the tracking fixed,
here another Señor guided us in his car to a Tyre Depot where
they worked on the tracking. We drove north another thirty km to
camp at Salto Chico, just off the Ruta 5. Friday when we left the
camp we found the main falls, Salto del Laja. We then found the
entry to Ruta 5 and travelled south to the first turn
round to go north. We continued on a fine sunny day to Talca to
have the tracking corrected. Yesterday’s results did not agree
with our details. In Talca we found another branch of the
tracking company, Cruz, where they spent two hours with corrections and
road tests, no charge. The journey north continued to
Curicó where we stopped in a Copec fuel station, there were no
camps in the area.
Saturday 30th the night passed smoothly. The problems began when we tried to start the caravan, the battery was flat. the connection to the body batteries failed, we then tried to start the generator, failed again. We contacted the pump personal and eventually a lorry driver gave us a tow to start us. We drove into Curicó to the local Cruz where all three batteries were tested and the engine battery replaced. A longer fastener had to be made as the new battery was taller. The mechanic crawled under the vehicle and fitted a patch to the diesel filler pipe, which was leaking. Back on the road north to turn off west for Isla de Mapio where we eventually found a camp with room for us. Sunday after a leisurely start and with good instructions from the camp proprietor we drove into Santiago to find the Club Suiza. With the maps we had it took some finding, only to discover that the entrance was too low. We decided to leave and go to Valparaiso. It took us until lunch to get to the outskirts of the city and with no known camp in Valparaiso we decided to stop at a Copec fuel station. After dinner the electric was showing problems, the twelve volt gage registered five volts, the twelve volt TV did not work, the mains electric gage had all lights on (we were unconnected to the mains) and the generator would not start. Before going to bed we disconnected both leisure batteries.
Saturday 2nd Rudi and Berlinda called in to say “goodbye”, they were meeting friends in the town. The rest of the morning passed and after lunch Kev and Lorraine called in for a chat. They left just before dinner. Sunday was a fine sunny day. We drove into town to shop, in Carrefour, to use an ATM and then we visited the other camp to see if any one we knew was there, there wasn’t. Henk and Marianne called in at 2130, Howard went to their van for a chat. Monday a rest day. Mervyn went for a walk. Henk and Marianne visited us after dinner for a chat. Tuesday we started north for a change, on a fine sunny day with very brief rain showers. We saw a Grey Fox running up a cliff in the morning. We arrived in Rio Grande by 1215, but spent an hour looking for the camp. Howard eventually asked in a Ford dealers and we were guided to the camp by one of the staff, in his car. Wednesday on another sunny but very windy day, we drove from Rio Grande to San Sebastian to cross into Chile. We arrived at the Argentinean Border Post at 1145 and left the Chilean Border Post at 1300, it seemed a bit chaotic. We drove five hundred metres to the Frontera Inn, where we had stopped on the way south. We ate dinner in the restaurant, It was excellent. Thursday we made an early start, we were on the road by 0730. The journey began with one hundred and five km of ripio (corrugated gravel road). This took one hundred and seven minutes at sixty kph. The quiet when
we reached the made up
road was wonderful. The next obstacle was the ferry, we loaded
within half an hour of our arrival. We drove to the
Chile/Argentine Border and arrived at 1130. We left the control
at 1330 for a late lunch and then drove to Rio Gallegos, to shop at
Carrefour and camp twenty five km further on at Güer Aike at
1645. Friday In
the morning we replaced the Charcoal Filter in our Water
Purifier. Then we relaxed for a rest day.Saturday 9th we drove to the airport to meet our friends Kim and Mark Viner, they were in Argentina for a holiday and were flying out to the offshore islands. We arrived there two minutes before them and they came into the van for tea and a chat. The time soon passed and they had to book in for their flight, we then had coffee and chocolate in the café before they boarded their plane. We lunched and left to drive north to Comandante Luis Piedrabuena, where we camped. Sunday we continued our journey north on R3 to Fitz Roy where the camp was very neglected. We left and returned sixteen km south to Jaramillo where the camp was well cared for. An armadillo darted out from the side of the road, we swerved and missed it. It returned to the verge, we also saw during the day many small groups of Llamas and two Rheas, one with chicks. Monday on a sunny and very windy day we continued our route north to Comodoro Rivadavia to shop and then we returned ten km to the excellent camp at Rada Tilly where we were warmly welcomed back. Tuesday was a rest day, Howard broke the plastic connection to the toilet, we now have to flush the toilet with a bottle of water. Wednesday at 0900 we left the camp to journey west to Sarmiento in a very strong westerly wind which made the van swerve. We arrived at 1200 and found the camp easily. It looked flooded. The other camp was closed and we returned to enter the first camp where we were shown to a dry site. The site was also well sheltered from the wind. Thursday we left by 0800 bound for Gobernador Costa. The wind although strong was gusty and we arrived at 1200 firstly to fill up with diesel and then to find the camp. As the town was not very big, even following the directions wrongly we still found the camp. We settled in and then had lunch. A short walk followed to try to find an internet café, we were unsuccessful. Friday we left by 0800 and drove north with a little west in the direction to Esquel. When we arrived we drove through the town seeking the Tourist Information. We did not find it so we stopped on the road side for tea break. As we had seen a camp on our drive through we returned to it to find that it had space, for our large caravan, not on the usual camp site. After lunch we walked into town to book a cruise on the two lakes, Lago Menendez and Lago Futalaufquen. Our walk back to the camp was delayed by a visit to an Ice Cream Parlour. The day has been hot and sunny but not windy.
Saturday 16th we made a leisurely start for the camp in the National Park and arrived in time for elevenses. The route was not very simple, the tarmac road was unfinished which meant a detour of twenty km, eleven of them being on ripio. We had tea break on arrival, and relaxed for the rest of the day. Sunday we started on five km of ripio to get to the departure point of the first boat. We arrived in plenty of time and boarded the boat just before 0900. The boat sailed at 0920 to take us up Lago Futalaufquen, it took an hour and a half to the north end of the Lago. A walk of half an hour took us to Lago Menendez where we boarded the second boat for an hour’s trip northwards. From the landing at Brazo Norte, Mervyn went on the two hour guided tour while Howard went on the one hour self guided tour, along with several other persons. We both saw the 2600 year old Alerce Tree. After an hours wait for Mervyn we boarded the boat at the jetty, only to be told, an hour later, that it was the wrong boat. The right boat soon arrived and the outward trip was reversed to bring us back to the start by 1830. A short drive back to the camp was followed by a fine evening meal in the restaurant. Monday we made a leisurely start for the journey to El Bolson. The day was fine with clouds and some sun. The ripio made the short trip back to Esquel longer than we had hoped, but after that it all went smoothly and we arrived at 1530. We found a nice camp at the third attempt. Tuesday as we had the internet we took along time Before starting and then decided it was too late to start. A rest day. Wednesday our start was not very early, we tried the net but could not connect with it, we did not get away until 0915. The journey was up and down steep mountain roads and therefore slow. We still arrived at the camp in Bariloche in time for lunch, and again there was internet. Thursday a short journey was planned, we shopped for two days. We drove west to circumnavigate the Llao Llao peninsular and then back through Bariloche and on to Villa La Angostura. The town was as touristy and busy as Bariloche. We continued on towards the Chilean border looking for a camp, we did not find one and crossed into Chile, loosing the morning‘s shopping of bananas and meat. The crossing itself was not too difficult and we travelled on for ten km to camp. Friday we continued w
estwards to Entrelagos where we tried to
obtain Chilean cash and shop. As this was unsuccessful we drove
to Osorno where we found an ATM and Tourist Information, while Mervyn
drove round and round the town square Howard obtained some cash and
directions to a camp. On our way to the recommended camp we
shopped in a supermarket and then continued on to the camp.Saturday 23rd we drove south on the motorway to Frutillar, found the Tourist Information and then the camp up a dirt road. We settled in and then had tea break. There are three volcanoes across the lake, the snow on their tops glistening in the sun. Sunday we returned north through Osorno and then turned west to Valdivia, to camp on a beautiful lakeside site. The weather seems to have settled, sunny and warm. We took our washing to the camp office to be collected and washed. It was returned at 2250 when we were both in bed. Monday was a rest day. Mervyn bussed into the town and bought some maps. Tuesday we started off at 0815 to drive to Pucón where we arrived just after elevenses. We had superb views of the Volcano Villarrica. Wednesday we started off north-westwards to reach the motorway where we turned north as far as Lautaro. We then turned east into the mountains to Malalcahuello where we camped in the grounds of The Ho
tel Suizandina. In The Hotel grounds
were some different coloured Llamas. We had an excellent meal in
the hotel where we chatted to two English teachers who were working in
Santiago. Thursday
the day started with hot showers. We then started out west back
to Curacautín and then headed north of east to Victoria where we
tried to get the tracking
checked. A young Señor, Danilo, was very helpful and gave
us his phone number in case we were in difficulties speaking
Spanish. We had to go to Los Angeles to get the tracking fixed,
here another Señor guided us in his car to a Tyre Depot where
they worked on the tracking. We drove north another thirty km to
camp at Salto Chico, just off the Ruta 5. Friday when we left the
camp we found the main falls, Salto del Laja. We then found the
entry to Ruta 5 and travelled south to the first turn
round to go north. We continued on a fine sunny day to Talca to
have the tracking corrected. Yesterday’s results did not agree
with our details. In Talca we found another branch of the
tracking company, Cruz, where they spent two hours with corrections and
road tests, no charge. The journey north continued to
Curicó where we stopped in a Copec fuel station, there were no
camps in the area.Saturday 30th the night passed smoothly. The problems began when we tried to start the caravan, the battery was flat. the connection to the body batteries failed, we then tried to start the generator, failed again. We contacted the pump personal and eventually a lorry driver gave us a tow to start us. We drove into Curicó to the local Cruz where all three batteries were tested and the engine battery replaced. A longer fastener had to be made as the new battery was taller. The mechanic crawled under the vehicle and fitted a patch to the diesel filler pipe, which was leaking. Back on the road north to turn off west for Isla de Mapio where we eventually found a camp with room for us. Sunday after a leisurely start and with good instructions from the camp proprietor we drove into Santiago to find the Club Suiza. With the maps we had it took some finding, only to discover that the entrance was too low. We decided to leave and go to Valparaiso. It took us until lunch to get to the outskirts of the city and with no known camp in Valparaiso we decided to stop at a Copec fuel station. After dinner the electric was showing problems, the twelve volt gage registered five volts, the twelve volt TV did not work, the mains electric gage had all lights on (we were unconnected to the mains) and the generator would not start. Before going to bed we disconnected both leisure batteries.
CHILE-Valparaiso