MARCH -2010
ARGENTINA-Mendoza
Monday 1st was a rest day, Mervyn went into town and
Howard tidied up the electric cable locker and then went on the
net. The camp has Wi-fi but not in the caravan. It was very
pleasant sitting in the shade in the open. Tuesday as the camp is a
good camp we decided to stop another day. Wednesday we left Mendoza
on Ruta 40 and headed south to Ruta 7 where we turned north-west for
Uspallata. 
There was no known camp and we returned to
Poterillos to camp in a YPF fuel station. We had reasonable views
of Cerro Aconcagua which were marred by cloud. Cerro Aconcagua is
6960m., the highest mountain in the western hemisphere. Thursday we left the fuel
station early to continue on our route back to Mendoza. We passed
easily through Mendoza and drove north to Jocoli where we turned east
on Ruta 34. At Costa de Araujo Howard took a wrong turn and we
travelled twenty km before discovering our error. We returned to
Costa de Araujo to head north on Ruta 142 to El Encón where we
turned east on Ruta 20. At Luján we camped Friday we left Luján
to head east into the mountains, we diverted into Quines to find a
bank. We returned to Ruta 20 and drove north-east to villa
Dolores making good time on the flat land. Then we entered the
mountains and our speed dropped to less than 50 kph. The road
down on the west side was even slower. We then turned south to
Alta Gracia where the lady in the Tourist Information spoke English and
put the route to the camp on a town map. There was no one at the
camp so we picked a spot. The Owner arrived later, after he had
switched on the electricity, to collect the fee.
Saturday 6th we left Alta Gracia and travelled north to Cordoba where we took the eastern bypass round to Ruta 9. We journeyed north on Ruta 9 to Jesús Maria to visit a Jesuit Estancia, photos were banned and so were cameras. Mervyn did not enter and therefore no fee was paid. From there we went north-west on Ruta 60 to cross into Catamarca Province and camp at a fuel station at Recreo. Sunday we continued north on Ruta 157, through Santiago del Estero Province into Tucuman Province. At a police check point Mervyn was asked for all the papers, and the police wanted to look at the fire extinguisher. We did not offer a bribe and after three quarters of an hour our papers were all returned and we drove on. We left Santiago del Estero Province for Salta Province to camp at Rosario de la Frontera in an Automobile
Club of Argentina site. Monday we left Rosario de
la Frontera and continued north on Ruta 9 into Jujuy Province. We
tried to shop in San Sebastian de Jujuy without any success and
continued to Purmamarca where the camps were either unfindable or
inaccessible. We returned fifty km to camp in Yala on the same
site as when we entered Argentina in February. Tuesday when the office
opened we made enquiries for shopping in San Sebastian de Jujuy.
We then drove into town, Carrefour had no parking but we found
Changomas where we shopped. We next searched for and found an
ATM. In the town centre Howard drove round in a large square, in
very heavy traffic while Mervyn found a bank. We then returned to
Yala to camp for a late lunch. On the way on Ruta 9 we saw a
large snake, six foot long and four inches diameter, in the centre of
the other carriageway. Wednesday
we took our time departing, we left about 1100. The journey north
to Tilcara passed uneventfully and we were settled in in time for
lunch. The rock formations were very interesting but
unphotographical. Thursday
we made a late start after tea break. Our day took us back south
to Purmamarca and then west to Susques through the hairpin bends on
that road. We stopped behind the same hotel as on our eastward
trip. The evening meal in the restaurant was again excellent. Friday we made an early
start, we were on the road by 0655 and travelled west to Jama Pass and
the Argentinean Border Post. We were cleared in fifteen minutes
and drove on into Chile. We continued over the de Suco Pass, at
15000ft., and then down to San Pedro de Atacama. We descended
7080ft. in 20km. On the descent, where the road was almost
straight
down, the right front brake overheated
and we had to stop to let it cool. We took our lunch break
early. When we reached the Chilean Border Post it took us thirty
minutes to clear. After this we carried on to Calama, to shop and
camp in The Casa del Valle Site. On the crossing we saw many
Llama including three very young ones and several Flamingo, we also
crossed The Altiplano.
Saturday 13th we took a rest day. Sunday another rest day. Monday we left camp with the plan to have the brakes looked at after Friday’s overheating. Both brake shops were closed when we arrived, we waited outside the Casa del Frenos which soon opened. The front brake pads were retextured and the back ones replaced. The brakes were still not working properly and the internal parts of the cylinder reconditioned. As this had taken all morning, we shopped and returned to the camp. Tuesday we left for Pica, where we had intended going on Monday. We drove on a boring route through the Atacama Desert, the scenery was drab and lifeless. Finally we arrived in Pica we could not reach the first camp on narrow sandy roads. The second was closed and we ended up at the local Copec fuel station. Wednesday we went back to the main road and crossed it to go to the Geoglifos de Pintados. The Geoglifos were excellent. We went back to Ruta 5 and continued north past
Pozo Almonte to turn west on Ruta 16 to
Iquique. The road down into Iquique was very steep but we made it
OK and drove south on Ruta 1 to camp at Tres Islas. Thursday we stopped at the
camp. As there was no bus into town we took a taxi to go shopping
at Unimarc. We relaxed for the rest of the day. In the
evening the electric went haywire, continually tripping the main switch
although the indicator showed 220 volts but we were using no
current. Friday
we planned to leave after an oil change. We left camp by 0800 but
took until 1000 to find a garage that could do the oil change.
The first two said no, the first said we were too heavy the second did
not have the necessary oil. We had the wrong address for the third, an Iveco
garage, but we found it eventually. They did not finish until
1300, too late to start out so we returned to the camp.
Saturday 20th as it was the weekend another rest was decided on. Sunday we returned east to Ruta 5. We then drove north to Huara where we turned east to see the biggest archaeological representation of a human in the world, 86m high. We could only see the legs the rest was on top of the hill or perhaps covered by sand. We returned to Ruta 5 and drove north to Arica, stopping to photograph the Geoglifos de Chiza. We arrived after 1600 but found the camp easily. Monday we started off into town to find the Tourist Information. We asked for directions to a laundrette, an ATM, an insurance for Peru, a new camp and a supermarket. The laundry will be ready by 1400 tomorrow, no insurance for Peru could be found, the ATMs are close by and the supermarket was successfully visited. The Tourist Information made several phone calls and then said “come back tomorrow”. We went to one of the new camps suggested and booked in. Tuesday we started the day visiting the local Geoglifos in two valleys. We asked a Chilean how we could get closer to one site. He invited us into his house where we took some photos of the site, from the second floor. We went next to the Tourist Information, it was shut for lunch then we went to a fuel station for Wi-fi and some cash. There was no Wi-fi. We returned to the car park to find the Tourist Information was open but unable to help us with Insurance for Peru. We walked to the laundry to collect our washing and then returned to last night’s camp. It was locked, the second camp had a very low tree but the third was OK. Wednesday we made an early start for Peru. At the border it took us fifteen minutes to clear Chile and an hour and a quarter to enter Peru. We drove north and then north west to Moquegua to camp just after the second free toll. We do not have any Peruvian currency. Thursday we left the car/lorry park early and drove west on Ruta 1 finding another toll where they accepted US dollars and even gave us change in the local currency. We left Ruta 1 at Repartición and drove north east to Arequipa, the road was very narrow, twisting and steep both up and down hill. It was imposable to pass the queues of lorries caused by the many road works where one lane was closed It was rush hour in the town when we arrived and we eventually found the camp in The Residential Hostel Las Mercedes after good directions from two police officers. The help at reception was superb with directions to an Insurance Company and several ATMs. We now have third party insurance for Peru. We also put the clocks back two hours. Friday we shopped and then relaxed.
Saturday 27th a rest day, Mervyn went for a morning walk round town Howard went on the net. Mervyn went on the net when he returned. Sunday another rest day. We went shopping in the morning and out into town for a meal at lunchtime. We had a short session on the net and then relaxed. Monday we were on the road by 0800 but it took us ninety minutes to clear Arequipa. We motored south and then west to El Alto where we turned off Ruta 1 to go to the Petroglyphs de Toro Muerto. We found the entrance, paid and entered but we could not find the Petroglifos. A farmer directed Mervyn and then brought out his motor bike to guide Howard in the van. We photographed some of the over two thousand Petroglifos. On returning to Ruta 1 we carried on to Camana where we were lucky to find a site in The Hotel Tourista on the main street as we passed through. Tuesday we left Camana and drove along Ruta 1 to Chala and on a few miles to the Puerto Inca Hotel to camp. We were there by 1245, a late lunch. Two Canadians arrived soon after us and we invited them over for the evening when we had a four hour chat. Wednesday as the site on the beach was so nice and peaceful we stopped for another day.
There was no known camp and we returned to
Poterillos to camp in a YPF fuel station. We had reasonable views
of Cerro Aconcagua which were marred by cloud. Cerro Aconcagua is
6960m., the highest mountain in the western hemisphere. Thursday we left the fuel
station early to continue on our route back to Mendoza. We passed
easily through Mendoza and drove north to Jocoli where we turned east
on Ruta 34. At Costa de Araujo Howard took a wrong turn and we
travelled twenty km before discovering our error. We returned to
Costa de Araujo to head north on Ruta 142 to El Encón where we
turned east on Ruta 20. At Luján we camped Friday we left Luján
to head east into the mountains, we diverted into Quines to find a
bank. We returned to Ruta 20 and drove north-east to villa
Dolores making good time on the flat land. Then we entered the
mountains and our speed dropped to less than 50 kph. The road
down on the west side was even slower. We then turned south to
Alta Gracia where the lady in the Tourist Information spoke English and
put the route to the camp on a town map. There was no one at the
camp so we picked a spot. The Owner arrived later, after he had
switched on the electricity, to collect the fee.Saturday 6th we left Alta Gracia and travelled north to Cordoba where we took the eastern bypass round to Ruta 9. We journeyed north on Ruta 9 to Jesús Maria to visit a Jesuit Estancia, photos were banned and so were cameras. Mervyn did not enter and therefore no fee was paid. From there we went north-west on Ruta 60 to cross into Catamarca Province and camp at a fuel station at Recreo. Sunday we continued north on Ruta 157, through Santiago del Estero Province into Tucuman Province. At a police check point Mervyn was asked for all the papers, and the police wanted to look at the fire extinguisher. We did not offer a bribe and after three quarters of an hour our papers were all returned and we drove on. We left Santiago del Estero Province for Salta Province to camp at Rosario de la Frontera in an Automobile
Club of Argentina site. Monday we left Rosario de
la Frontera and continued north on Ruta 9 into Jujuy Province. We
tried to shop in San Sebastian de Jujuy without any success and
continued to Purmamarca where the camps were either unfindable or
inaccessible. We returned fifty km to camp in Yala on the same
site as when we entered Argentina in February. Tuesday when the office
opened we made enquiries for shopping in San Sebastian de Jujuy.
We then drove into town, Carrefour had no parking but we found
Changomas where we shopped. We next searched for and found an
ATM. In the town centre Howard drove round in a large square, in
very heavy traffic while Mervyn found a bank. We then returned to
Yala to camp for a late lunch. On the way on Ruta 9 we saw a
large snake, six foot long and four inches diameter, in the centre of
the other carriageway. Wednesday
we took our time departing, we left about 1100. The journey north
to Tilcara passed uneventfully and we were settled in in time for
lunch. The rock formations were very interesting but
unphotographical. Thursday
we made a late start after tea break. Our day took us back south
to Purmamarca and then west to Susques through the hairpin bends on
that road. We stopped behind the same hotel as on our eastward
trip. The evening meal in the restaurant was again excellent. Friday we made an early
start, we were on the road by 0655 and travelled west to Jama Pass and
the Argentinean Border Post. We were cleared in fifteen minutes
and drove on into Chile. We continued over the de Suco Pass, at
15000ft., and then down to San Pedro de Atacama. We descended
7080ft. in 20km. On the descent, where the road was almost
straight down, the right front brake overheated
and we had to stop to let it cool. We took our lunch break
early. When we reached the Chilean Border Post it took us thirty
minutes to clear. After this we carried on to Calama, to shop and
camp in The Casa del Valle Site. On the crossing we saw many
Llama including three very young ones and several Flamingo, we also
crossed The Altiplano.Saturday 13th we took a rest day. Sunday another rest day. Monday we left camp with the plan to have the brakes looked at after Friday’s overheating. Both brake shops were closed when we arrived, we waited outside the Casa del Frenos which soon opened. The front brake pads were retextured and the back ones replaced. The brakes were still not working properly and the internal parts of the cylinder reconditioned. As this had taken all morning, we shopped and returned to the camp. Tuesday we left for Pica, where we had intended going on Monday. We drove on a boring route through the Atacama Desert, the scenery was drab and lifeless. Finally we arrived in Pica we could not reach the first camp on narrow sandy roads. The second was closed and we ended up at the local Copec fuel station. Wednesday we went back to the main road and crossed it to go to the Geoglifos de Pintados. The Geoglifos were excellent. We went back to Ruta 5 and continued north past
Pozo Almonte to turn west on Ruta 16 to
Iquique. The road down into Iquique was very steep but we made it
OK and drove south on Ruta 1 to camp at Tres Islas. Thursday we stopped at the
camp. As there was no bus into town we took a taxi to go shopping
at Unimarc. We relaxed for the rest of the day. In the
evening the electric went haywire, continually tripping the main switch
although the indicator showed 220 volts but we were using no
current. Friday
we planned to leave after an oil change. We left camp by 0800 but
took until 1000 to find a garage that could do the oil change.
The first two said no, the first said we were too heavy the second did
not have the necessary oil. We had the wrong address for the third, an Iveco
garage, but we found it eventually. They did not finish until
1300, too late to start out so we returned to the camp.Saturday 20th as it was the weekend another rest was decided on. Sunday we returned east to Ruta 5. We then drove north to Huara where we turned east to see the biggest archaeological representation of a human in the world, 86m high. We could only see the legs the rest was on top of the hill or perhaps covered by sand. We returned to Ruta 5 and drove north to Arica, stopping to photograph the Geoglifos de Chiza. We arrived after 1600 but found the camp easily. Monday we started off into town to find the Tourist Information. We asked for directions to a laundrette, an ATM, an insurance for Peru, a new camp and a supermarket. The laundry will be ready by 1400 tomorrow, no insurance for Peru could be found, the ATMs are close by and the supermarket was successfully visited. The Tourist Information made several phone calls and then said “come back tomorrow”. We went to one of the new camps suggested and booked in. Tuesday we started the day visiting the local Geoglifos in two valleys. We asked a Chilean how we could get closer to one site. He invited us into his house where we took some photos of the site, from the second floor. We went next to the Tourist Information, it was shut for lunch then we went to a fuel station for Wi-fi and some cash. There was no Wi-fi. We returned to the car park to find the Tourist Information was open but unable to help us with Insurance for Peru. We walked to the laundry to collect our washing and then returned to last night’s camp. It was locked, the second camp had a very low tree but the third was OK. Wednesday we made an early start for Peru. At the border it took us fifteen minutes to clear Chile and an hour and a quarter to enter Peru. We drove north and then north west to Moquegua to camp just after the second free toll. We do not have any Peruvian currency. Thursday we left the car/lorry park early and drove west on Ruta 1 finding another toll where they accepted US dollars and even gave us change in the local currency. We left Ruta 1 at Repartición and drove north east to Arequipa, the road was very narrow, twisting and steep both up and down hill. It was imposable to pass the queues of lorries caused by the many road works where one lane was closed It was rush hour in the town when we arrived and we eventually found the camp in The Residential Hostel Las Mercedes after good directions from two police officers. The help at reception was superb with directions to an Insurance Company and several ATMs. We now have third party insurance for Peru. We also put the clocks back two hours. Friday we shopped and then relaxed.
Saturday 27th a rest day, Mervyn went for a morning walk round town Howard went on the net. Mervyn went on the net when he returned. Sunday another rest day. We went shopping in the morning and out into town for a meal at lunchtime. We had a short session on the net and then relaxed. Monday we were on the road by 0800 but it took us ninety minutes to clear Arequipa. We motored south and then west to El Alto where we turned off Ruta 1 to go to the Petroglyphs de Toro Muerto. We found the entrance, paid and entered but we could not find the Petroglifos. A farmer directed Mervyn and then brought out his motor bike to guide Howard in the van. We photographed some of the over two thousand Petroglifos. On returning to Ruta 1 we carried on to Camana where we were lucky to find a site in The Hotel Tourista on the main street as we passed through. Tuesday we left Camana and drove along Ruta 1 to Chala and on a few miles to the Puerto Inca Hotel to camp. We were there by 1245, a late lunch. Two Canadians arrived soon after us and we invited them over for the evening when we had a four hour chat. Wednesday as the site on the beach was so nice and peaceful we stopped for another day.
PERU-Chala